Caviar & Bull
On the menu as “Bull Tartare”
Caviar theatre
Black Angus, cured yolk, sturgeon caviar and crispy cones — a tartare dressed for the opera that forgets to sing.
The review
Marvin Gauci's seafront room at the Corinthia opens with an aged-beef cabinet and closes with a 24-karat gold dessert, so the tartare arrives predictably costumed: Black Angus folded with shallots and pickled cucumber, a cured yolk, sturgeon caviar if you pay the upgrade, the lot piled into crispy cones like haute street food. The Michelin guide applauds. I half agree: the components are pedigreed and the first cone is a delight. But the cone is also the problem — its crunch and salt upstage the beef, the cured yolk turns sauce into garnish, and by the third bite you are eating presentation. Somewhere under the theatre an excellent tartare is signalling to get out. As spectacle, top three on this list. As beef, twelfth.
Judged on five criteria
- 01The Cut
- 02The Seasoning
- 03The Yolk
- 04The Sides
- 05The Room