Ranked #2 of 16 · 9.2/10 · Åre, Sweden

Werséns

On the menu as “Steak tartar”

9.2/10

Village-square brasserie

The menu promises 'classic sides' and keeps its word — a brasserie tartare of total conviction on Åre's village square.

The review

Two ski brothers have run this brasserie on Åre torg since 1998, and it shows: no reservations, no theatrics, a menu that says 'steak tartar, classic sides, french fries' and refuses to elaborate. What lands is the argument for classicism itself — cold, glossy beef, the traditional trimmings arranged like tools on a workbench, fries with proper crackle. After a day on the mountain it eats like a defibrillator. Jämtland produce does quiet work in the background, and downstairs the same family will hand you a 350-degree soapstone to cook your own steak, which tells you how seriously this house takes beef. Only Glashuset's maximalism keeps it off the top step. The best thing on the square — possibly on the mountain.

Judged on five criteria

  • 01The Cut
  • 02The Seasoning
  • 03The Yolk
  • 04The Sides
  • 05The Room

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