Toro Toro
On the menu as “Beef tartare”
8.4/10
Pan-Latin high-rise
Truffle, chipotle emulsion and sun-dried tomato on the 11th floor of a Zaha Hadid tower — the most fun a tartare had all year.
The review
Eleven floors up the Mercury Tower, with Paceville glittering below and the music a notch too loud, Richard Sandoval's pan-Latin steakhouse hands its tartare a passport. Chipotle emulsion brings smoke and a slow burn, sun-dried tomato adds a sweet umami bassline, truffle rounds it into something plush — and the whole thing sits on the suviche bar menu between ceviches, where you can crown it with caviar if the night demands. It shouldn't work; it works. This is the only tartare on this list that made me grin at first bite. What keeps it off the podium: at this volume — decibels and price alike — precision occasionally loses to party. Order it in the Torokase flight and start an argument.
Judged on five criteria
- 01The Cut
- 02The Seasoning
- 03The Yolk
- 04The Sides
- 05The Room